Champany Inn wins Michelin star after a 25-year wait

CALUM MACDONALD and JULIA HORTON The Herald Newspaper
http://www.theherald.co.uk/

After a quarter of a century of sweating in the kitchen, it was about time someone gave Clive Davidson a little recognition. It finally arrived yesterday, and in style.
The restaurant Mr Davidson and his wife Anne have owned and ran for the past 25 years was awarded a prized Michelin star by the inspectors of the world's most famous guide to eating out.
The Champany Inn in Linlithgow, which the Davidsons opened in 1983, was one of two restaurants to join the small list of elite Scottish eateries which boast a Michelin star.

The other was awarded, or more correctly reinstated, to the Ballachulish House Hotel by Loch Leven in the Highlands, which lost its single star last year. The two awards announced yesterday raise the number of restaurants in Scotland with a single Michelin star from eight to 10. None of the Scottish starred restaurants lost its rating this year.

There was no change further up the rankings, with Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles remaining the sole two-starred establishment in Scotland. No Scottish restaurant has three Michelin stars.

Mr Davidson had all but given up hope of ever winning a star for the Champany Inn, which made yesterday's announcement all the more pleasing. "I'm absolutely shocked and dumbfounded," he said.

"After 25 years of being here I thought these things had passed us by, by now. It's fantastic news and shows what fantastic staff we have. I should imagine a drop or two will pass our lips later today."

Neither of the owners of the Ballachulish House Hotel - Drs MacLaughlin-Taylor or Goodenow - were available to comment on being reinstated to the list of elite restaurants, but the news was no doubt welcome.

As ever with the publication of the Michelin Guide, there was a degree of disappointment among the good news.

Martin Wishart, whose eponymous restaurant in Edinburgh already has a single Michelin star, was tipped to gain a second this year. Mr Wishart, a columnist for The Herald Magazine, was unavailable as he is in Singapore taking part in an event to celebrate Scottish cuisine.

Another disappointment was the failure yet again of any Glasgow restaurants to make the list.
Brian Maule of Chardon d'Or in the city said: "I don't know what they're looking for any more." Nevertheless, he maintains an indifference towards the value of stars. He added: "I cook for my customers, and if they keep coming back because of the quality food that is served on their plate, then I can't ask for much more than that."

Also announced yesterday were the Michelin Bib Gourmand awards, which recognise restaurants which serve good food at moderate prices.

Three Scottish restaurants were awarded Bib Gourmands for the first time, while one was stripped of their title.
The Wee Restaurant in North Queensferry, Fife, Duck's at Le Marche Noir in Edinburgh, and The Restaurant in Killin, Stirlingshire, all received the title while 63 Tay Street in Perth lost its Bib.

Gordon Ramsay's Chelsea restaurant, Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck and Michel Roux's Waterside Inn, both in Bray-on-Thames in Berkshire, remain the only restaurants in the UK with three stars. The Michelin guide to Great Britain & Ireland 2008 goes on sale tomorrow.

Fine dining Two stars:
Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles, Auchterarder

One star:
Ballachulish House, Ballachulish *
Braidwoods, Dalry
Champany Inn, Linlithgow *
Glenapp Castle, Ballantrae
Inverlochy Castle, Fort William
The Kitchen, Edinburgh
Knockinaam Lodge, Portpatrick
Martin Wishart, Edinburgh
Number One, Edinburgh
Summer Isles, Achiltibuie

Bib Gourmand:
Atrium, Edinburgh
The Bank, Crieff
Creagan House, Strathyre
Duck's at Le Marche Noir, Edinburgh *
The Kilberry Inn, Kintyre/Kilberry
The Restaurant, Killin/Ardeonaig *
The Sorn Inn, Sorn
The Wee Restaurant, North Queensferry *
New addition for 2008

63 Tay Street, Perth, lost its Bib Gourmand in this year's list.